Nalbinding : Viking knitting
Nalbinding is an ancient form of textile art little known in Canada, but whose tradition is still very much alive in Scandinavia.
What is nalbinding?
The aim of this textile art is to make flexible fabrics in the form of clothing and accessories using a thread and a holed neddle. Different fabrics, and even basketry, can be made using nalbinding. These range from extremely fine to very coarse.
This process is used to create hats, socks, nets, colanders and many other everyday items.
Differences between sewing, embroidery, knitting, crochet and nalbinding
Today, a person who works with thread and a holed needle usually does sewing or embrodery.
In sewing, we join 2 pieces of fabric with a thread or we ensure that the thread prevents the edge of textile drom fraying. As for embroidery, we ambelish the fabric with beautiful patterns.
This is not what we do with nalbinding. Indeed, the goal of this technique is to make clothes and accessories by making the fabric as the piece is created, like in knitting and crochet. However, nalbinding should not be confused with knitting or crochet.
Certainly, nalbinding is sometimes colled “Viking knitting” on websites and in some medieval and historical recreation groups. However, the use of the word “knitting” is inappropriate because it is not knitting at all. On the other hand, since we are talking about a little-known technique, it is easier to simply say that it is a kind of knitting. So, people quikly get the following idea : An incalculable series of knots made with thread and some type of needle to make a piece of clothing or an accessoriy.
Except that the needle has a hole like the sewing and embroidery needle… and… It’s not sewing or embroidery either…
Knitting and crochetting are done continuously with “endless” yarn. In addition, the new stitch is always born from a section of thread close to the stitch formed last. And then, to undo a knitted or crecheted piece, simply pull on the thread.
When it comes to nalbindgin, the loops are formed with a short piece of thread. The entire length of the thread should pass through the needle hole and through each new loop that is being formed or several loops already formed. Therefore, we must regularly add a piece of wire to continue the work. And if you pull the thread, the last loop closes and becomes a knot. Therefore, the work does not come undone (except for one stitch).
The technique
Malbindgin is generally carried out with a needle and thread with which loops are connected to form an elastic fabric. In this sense, the thread is continually looped on itself.
Typically, each new loop is rotated around the thumb. The thumb has sevral functions :
- It serves as a gauge for the size of the loop;
- It prevents loops frim turning into knots;
- It standardizes the formation of loops;
- It keeps the new loop(s), while the orld ones are behind the thumb or on a lower row.
To chage the size of the loops, simply place them higher or lower on the thumb.
It should be noted that some nalbinding enthusiasts do not wrap the curls around their thumb. Instead, they use a freehand method. With this method, the person holds the work in one hand so that they can always see the recent loops spread out un front of them. On the other hand, it is more difficult to find the correct path to pass the needle through the loops and to obtain a fabric with uniform stitches.
Usually, but not exclusively, nalbinding is worked in a round, spiral or oval and not back and forth. The needle is traditionally made of bone or wood. Today, you can find metal and plastic needles. Any thread can be used. But thicker, evenly spun, lint-free yarn made from real sheep’s wool that can be felted are most appropriate. The ability to felt the thread is important, beacause it allows you to connect the new pieces of thread to the thread already used in the projet without having to tie knots.
The name of the stitches derives from :
- The location where an artifact was found and which contains the stitch;
- The place where an artefact is exhibited thus presenting the stitch to the public;
- The place where the stitch in question is a traditional method;
- The name of the person who issued instructions about the stitches.
Origin of the word
The term “nalbinding” is pronounced [nalbindiƞ]. This expression is accepted internationally, especially by artisans who follow the Scandinavian tradition. Elswhere in the world, the technique is also called “looping”. And, as said above, we sometimes come the expression “Viking knitting”.
The origin of the word “nalbinding” (its etymology) comes from its traditional Scandinavian means name. Nalbinding means “needle binding” in English.
History of knitting
Like many inventions, the exact age and origin of knitting is unknown. There is, however, strong evidence that knitting existed in the Middle Ages.
There remain 2 small fragile pieces, possibly, knitted, wich date from the 2nd century. Since these artifacts were very damaged during their study, it is impossible to certifiy the technique used. Still, the oldest truly knitted discoveries plausibly come from Islamic Egypt. These date from the 7th to the 15th centuries.
It’s an undeniable fact : knitting is faster than nalbinding. Then, towards the end of the Middle Ages and the beginning of the Renaissance, knitting became widely used in commercial production when traditional woven socks fell out of fashion and a huge need for knitted socks arose. Moreover, the first knitting machine was invented in 1589 by William Lee. This machine produced 600 stitches per minute. A more recent version produced 1500.
History of nalbinding
As said above, we sometimes find the expression “Viking knittin”. The “Viking” precision undoubtedly comes from an association between Scandinavian culture and the Viking period of this region which dates back far into the past, but also because the tradition of nalbinding was transmitted continuously from the beginnings of this textile art until today in Scandinavia. Indeed, mittens and socks have been found in Vinking-influenced areas that date from during and after the classic Viking era.
However, the Vikings were not necessarily the creators of this process. In fact, from an archaeological point of view, we will probably never know with certainty who were the first to practice nalbinding. Obviously, nalbinding may have several origins and may have been developed independently in several parts of the world.
Furthermore, it is possible that nalbinding arises from simple forms of braiding, knotting, or net-making. It also seems likely that this technique derived from sewing long before humans knew how to make clothes from textiles (flexible fiber-based fabrics). At that time, humans wore fur and leather clothing. In addition, it was important that the clothing allowed for easy movement and did not restrict movement. Therefore, the skins were cut and sewn. Moreove, the oldest needle with hole, found in Eastern Europe, dates back more than 30 000 years.
This leads to thinking about the many special stitches that are used for various purposes. Depending on the type of stitch, the thread can be tied not only to the fabric for sewing or embroidery, but also to itself. Such stitches can be applied to create a kind of textile in situations where the basis of fabric to be sewn or embroidered is absent. Perhaps this is how nalbinding came to be.
Ultimately, nalbinding is such an old technique that it dates back to prehistoric times. And to finish, here are some dates of artifacts accompanied by ther place of discovery.
Stone Age
Israel : 8 000 BC
Gemany : 7 750 BC
Denmark : 4 500 BC (période Ertebølle), période néolithique et milieu du 4e millénaire BC.
Switzerland : Période néolithique
Iron Age
China : 3 000 ans
Sibéria, Russia, Danmark, Germany, Italy : not dated
Bronze Age
China : Environ 1 000 BC
Denmark : 1 300 BC
Germany, Netherlands, Italy, Syrie et Peru : not dated
Arizona (United-States) : 1st millennium
Références :
CLAßEN-BüTTNER, ULRIKE. Nalbinding, What in the world is that? History and technique of an almost forgotten handicraft. Herstelling und Verlag : BoD Books on Demand, Norderstedt, Wiehl, 2015, 116 pages
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